Super ferrata - D/E ⭐
Elevation: 1,2 km / Lenght: 2 km
Approach: 1,5 hrs / Duration: 7-8 hrs
Rating: 6/5
https://ferrataguide.com/ferrata/Super_-_Ferrata_-_Dachstein
Every passionate via ferrata climber should experience this at least once in their lifetime, as it is a true test of both physical and mental fitness. In this case, it's not so much about technical difficulty, but rather the overall length of the route and its almost extreme exposure.
For us, the day started at 4:00 a.m., and by 4:30 we were already setting off with headlamps from the first cable car station towards Dachstein. The Super Ferrata consists of three separate via ferratas: Anna, Johann, and Hoher Dachstein. The approach itself takes about an hour, but since we took a wrong turn at the signpost, it took us almost an hour and a half.
Honestly, before starting the first ferrata, Anna, I wanted to turn back to the car. The idea of climbing rock at seven in the morning, knowing that at least another 6 to 8 hours of climbing and ascending awaited me, wasn't exactly appealing. Unfortunately, the ferrata didn't feel good to climb at all—it seemed to be built for left-handed climbers (or at least that's how Luboš and I felt), and after less than the first hour, my left hand was already cramping badly. I tried to rely on it as little as possible and kept moving upward.
Towards the end of Anna, a very exposed D section awaits you, which I would personally describe as the second most demanding part of the entire Super Ferrata. After overcoming this challenging section, my fear slowly began to fade. We successfully reached the summit of Anna, followed by another fairly long and unpleasant traverse across scree. Fortunately, there was no snow for us, but in June or July snow is completely normal here, so be aware of that.
After a short rest came the main highlight of the day—the second ferrata called Johann. This is extremely exposed climbing that takes 3 to 4 hours. Right at the beginning, there is a notorious D/E section, but in my opinion it wasn't as difficult as expected. It's a short, small overhang where you need to hold on firmly with one hand for a few seconds while switching carabiners with the other. Done—you're up. The following hour of climbing is quite easy, mostly graded B/C.
At the first rest point, a small snack comes in handy, along with some mental preparation for the most famous section of the entire ferrata. You are faced with almost continuous climbing on iron rungs straight up a nearly vertical wall. I was honestly quite nervous and couldn't imagine how demanding it would be. From below, the wall looks absolutely terrifying.
There was no reason to hesitate—Luboš set off, and I followed right behind him. Unfortunately, I can't tell you much about what was happening around me, because for the entire hour I never once looked down and only focused on looking upward. My fears, however, did not come true. I can assure you that the C/D to D grading here mainly reflects the exposure. Technically, I would rate this section as B/C to C. In terms of feeling, it's similar to climbing a ladder—it really wasn't difficult, it was just very high.
At the second rest point, I was overcome by a slight sense of euphoria. I thought the worst was already behind me and that the remaining hour would be easy. And compared to what I had already climbed, it really was. What did catch me off guard—and earned a few swear words—was the very end of this ferrata. It involved a narrow rock ledge with a 500-meter drop opening up beneath it. That really wasn't my cup of tea, and I literally rushed through this section as fast as possible. Suddenly, it was over—Johann was completed.
After that, we took a break at a mountain hut, where I had the most expensive soup of my life and a well-deserved Coca-Cola. Then came a short crossing of the glacier. Unfortunately, in August the glacier is usually heavily melted, and access to the final, third ferrata—an easy B/C route—may not be possible at all. For this reason, I recommend climbing at the end of June or the beginning of July. Crevasses in the glacier are extremely dangerous, and you never know where you might step. Many people were searching for a way to reach the ferrata, but without glacier equipment it was truly impossible and definitely unsafe.
For us, this was the end, which disappointed Luboš more than me. I had already climbed Hoher Dachstein last year, so I've technically completed the Super Ferrata—at least unofficially. Hopefully that still counts, haha. I would also strongly recommend booking the cable car in advance, as on a sunny summer day it is completely sold out. Our entire trip took around 7 hours and involved 1,650 meters of elevation gain. If climbing all the way to the summit, I would expect a total time of 9 to 10 hours. It's truly an all-day adventure.
For now, I don't plan to repeat this experience—but never say never. This is real climbing that not everyone can handle, but I'm extremely glad I went for it and managed to complete it. In the end, it leaves you with an incredible sense of accomplishment.
The complete route from the parking area via all three ferratas to the upper cable car station.