Elferkofel - C (D/E)
Elevation: 300 m / Lenght: 690 m
Approach: 2 hrs / Duration: 1,5 hrs
Rating: 5/5
https://ferrataguide.com/ferrata/Elfer_Nordwand_-_Klettersteig_%28variant_DE%29
This article sums up two stunning via ferratas located in an even more remarkable rock city at around 2400 m. The first one - the more demanding Elfer Nordwand D with a very short D/E section - will make you feel like you're climbing in the Dolomites.
The second one Elferkogel takes you along airy mountain ridges with beautiful views. It's a relatively easy C, and in good summer weather, it can get quite busy.
First, it's important to talk about the approach itself and share a tip on how to save a bit of energy and a few vertical meters. To reach the ferrata, you'll need to climb at least 550 m of elevation gain in roughly two hours. But let me tell you upfront — it's absolutely worth it!
If you decide to ascend Elferkogel (2505 m) via the more demanding and much less frequented D-grade ferrata, turn right at the trail junction (47.0911450N, 11.3190611E). The marked path goes straight uphill, but in summer I'd actually recommend a route that is perhaps slightly more dangerous, but far more beautiful and photogenic, running below cliffs and rock towers. It also saves you roughly 50 vertical meters, which is a nice bonus. Anyone climbing D-grade ferratas should be able to handle the slope path, I guess…
And that's not all — the final meters before the start require real climbing on the rock with no protection. It's about 10 meters of easy scrambling, but still: be careful. Once you've made it past that section, the dream ferrata finally appears around the corner.
The beginning is fairly easy and fun, but the route repeatedly switches between protected and unprotected sections. After about 20 minutes, you'll reach a huge rock crevice through which most of the remaining route leads. There are plenty of sharp rungs here, and the atmosphere truly feels like climbing somewhere in the Dolomites. The D-section felt more challenging but also more enjoyable than the tight D/E squeeze in a small gap in the rock, which I bypassed.
After that, you'll enter a whole town of rock towers where you can wander around however you like. For a moment I wasn't even sure which way to go. The final C-section was, in my opinion, the hardest - not uphill, but going down. There's no other way off the top. Next comes an unprotected traverse through the rock city where you literally jump from one boulder to another it felt downright crazy. Eventually, after a bit of downclimbing, you'll arrive below the Elferkogel summit, which marks the beginning of the long ridge ferrata.
For beginners, it's the perfect climbing difficulty, and the level of exposure is ideal. If someone struggles more mentally than physically, they'll manage too - but it won't be completely free of challenge. I'd recommend climbing it from this direction: 47.0843217N, 11.3142131E. Since it's a popular route, you'll almost certainly meet other climbers along the way.
I descended roughly halfway through and then followed the yellow hiking trail back, enjoying absolutely excellent views of Ilmspitze (2692 m), Kirdachspitze (2840 m) and Hammerspitze (2641 m). I'd recommend this hike even to non-climbers - the rock city and the summit of Östlicher Elferturm (2499 m) can be reached without any via ferrata gear.
Circular route from the cable car station via the unmarked approach to the ferrata.