PR 9 - Levada do Caldeirão Verde
Elevation: 100 m / Lenght: 13 km / Time: 5 hrs
Visit rate: 5/5 / Rating: 5/5
We arrived around 9 a.m., and the parking lot was again about half full, which is pretty typical for these well known levadas. This time the weather was the complete opposite of the previous day when we hiked the PR 6 route, there was fog, light rain, and Madeira was wrapped in shades of grey all day long. It might seem like far from ideal hiking conditions, but a levada running through dense jungle has a perfect atmosphere in this kind of weather.
Right at the beginning, it's important to mention a key detail about parking. The parking machine is not located outside by the car park, but inside the information centre building next to the well known Cat House. A few people got caught out by this, as they drove through the open barrier on arrival and only realised on departure that they couldn't exit without a ticket, since both barriers had already been closed. We also recommend having cash on hand, as parking machines on Madeira sometimes don't accept cards. As with most popular PR trails, you can expect someone at the entrance scanning QR codes and checking tickets. In the afternoon, however, nobody was stationed at the entrance anymore, so inspections are likely only carried out during peak hours.
Mapy.com labels this route as extremely difficult due to elevation gain, but the reality is completely different. PR 9 is one of the flattest levadas on the entire island, with only minimal elevation changes, definitely tens of meters at most, not hundreds or thousands. Instead, you'll encounter tunnels that can be over 200 meters long, often filled with deep puddles and quite low, meaning you'll spend a significant part of the walk bent over. A guy walking behind us (a Czech guy, coincidentally) first stepped straight into a puddle and then immediately hit his head on the rock ceiling, which he wasn't too happy about. A phone flashlight is enough for lighting inside the tunnels, but make sure to watch your step and mind your head at all times.
The second half of the trail offers beautiful views in good weather. Unfortunately for us, that wasn't the case, and the fog persisted almost the entire way. In several sections you have to walk directly through flowing water, and some parts are quite exposed, as you follow a narrow channel along a steel cable with a drop of several hundred meters below you. So definitely watch your step. Waterproof shoes are an absolute must here (as on all levadas). We were honestly a bit in awe of the people we met in sneakers.
The Caldeirão Verde waterfall is officially closed, and technically it is not possible to reach it. In practice, however, an estimated 80% of hikers ignore the closure and go see it anyway. We were no exception. On the way back, we counted more than 300 people we had to pass and make room for over roughly 6.5 km.
Levadas are simply popular in all weather conditions, and that's something you need to keep in mind. The waterfall at the end of the trail is among the nicer ones on the island and is definitely worth a visit, but as with all levadas, the biggest experience isn't the destination, it's the journey itself. For completeness: in 2026 the section from Caldeirão Verde towards Caldeirão do Inferno is completely closed.
After returning to the parking area, it's definitely worth stopping by Cat House, where you can enjoy a coffee and a small snack while dozens of cats wander around you, making for a very pleasant end to the day. Just above the Cat House, there's also a beautiful little path lined with blooming trees that almost no one seems to find. If there was ever a spot to take Instagram photos, this would be it.
Week on Madeira for 2 (7 nights) Flights (Smartwings): 820,- Car rental (Sixt): 370,- Accommodation (Booking): 570,- Spending: 610,- Total: 2 370,- EUR