Ponta do Pargo: the west of Madeira
Visit rate: 5/5 / Rating: 4/5
The Ponta do Pargo lighthouse stands on the westernmost tip of the island, and the views over the western and southern cliffs immediately reminded us of the Faroe Islands. Dramatic rocky drops, wind, and the ocean stretching as far as you can see in every direction. In our case, the weather was pleasant, but it tends to be quite windy here, so a jacket or hoodie is definitely recommended. The parking area near the lighthouse was almost full around midday, but we were still able to find a spot. We imagine that at sunset, the car park gets completely packed.
In the area around the lighthouse, you'll also find the Garganta Funda waterfall with a viewpoint on the opposite cliff. The nearby parking lot, located just by the Sunset Eco Shelter 4 accommodation at coordinates 32.8192889N, 17.2475231W, is completely new and you won't find it on maps yet, but there is currently plenty of space there. Just be careful with the access road, which is very narrow, on our way out there was quite a traffic jam, with cars blocking each other and it was difficult to untangle the situation. But on Madeira, this is nothing unusual.
The waterfall itself is worth a stop if you're passing by, but we wouldn't rank it among the top waterfalls on Madeira. It often dries up, so it's best to visit after rainfall—otherwise you might just see a wet rock face. A 30 minute stop is definitely recommended, but it's not really worth planning a dedicated trip just for it.
If you're also interested in a viewpoint over the southern side of the island, you'll find Massapez viewpoint a short drive from the lighthouse at coordinates 32.7706892N, 17.2384297W. It's interesting how within just a few kilometers you can experience completely opposite weather on the west it can be windy and cold enough for a jacket, while a little further south we were warm even in a T-shirt. The viewpoint itself isn't bad, but honestly we wouldn't miss much if we skipped it. Take it more as a quick example of what the south looks like—there are plenty of similar views all over Madeira.
The west of the island is clearly the most remote and rugged part of Madeira. The circular road from Achadas da Cruz, where we stopped for a great burger at 101 BAR (very reasonably priced by Madeira standards), towards Ponta do Pargo is in the worst condition of the island's main loop. There was quite a bit of loose rock on the road that could easily cause a flat tire. We even had to drive around a car that had just fallen victim to exactly that.
On the west coast, you really only find locals living there. Very few tourists make it out this way most just pass through on their way to a levada or, at best, stop for a meal before continuing on.
Another well-known spot in the west, which we unfortunately didn't manage to visit ourselves, is Calhau das Achadas. If you're passing by, we'd recommend stopping there, it's actually more interesting than the lighthouse itself. Up top you might be put off by clouds and bad weather, but down at the coast it will likely be much better. However, you can only get down to the shoreline by cable car. We don't know the timetable, but we assume it only operates in good weather conditions.
Week on Madeira for 2 (7 nights) Flights (Smartwings): 820,- Car rental (Sixt): 370,- Accommodation (Booking): 570,- Spending: 610,- Total: 2 370,- EUR